Being an efficient woodworker doesn’t mean doing everything quickly.
It means knowing which moments of a project actually matter — and spending your time there.
And this is especially important for hand tool woodworkers.
Their tools are inherently slower. So they can’t waste time on operations that aren’t necessary.
My favorite example of this is milling and layout.
Power tool focused woodworkers often aren’t satisfied with milling a board until all 4 edges are perfectly square and parallel (I’m guilty of this too).
But most of the time, this is totally unnecessary.
In fact, you can mill boards to only have 1 flat face and 1 square edge — and still get an accurate layout.
It’s a classic “lazy” woodworking technique (using “lazy” facetiously, of course)...
But it’s actually genius — and a good method to follow even if you painstakingly square every face and edge of a board.
Here’s how it works.
FLATTEN 1 FACE AND SQUARE 1 EDGE
For this first step, precision is important.
You need a flat face and an edge that’s square to that face for this technique to work.
So take your time and get it right.
If you’re using power tools, you can quickly get this done with a jointer (or planer) and a table saw.
If you’re using hand planes, read this for a refresher.
Check with a trusty square to make sure the edge is 90° to the face along its entire length.
Bonus tip: The face you flatten will often end up being the show face — but that’s up to you.
Now get the other face and edge close to flat and square. But they can be total approximations.
LABEL THE FACE AND EDGE
Labeling the face and edge you milled is CRITICAL.
And there’s a historic precedent for how to do it.
On the flat face, make a sort of curled squiggle that looks like a ribbon or a fish.
I’ve heard some people claim it looks like the top of a cursive “f” for “face” — but this might just be fun folklore.
On the square edge, you’ll write a “V”, with the pointy end pointing towards the flattened face — like an arrow.
It’s important that these labels remain visible. Especially while doing layout.
So if they start to fade or get cut away, make sure to mark them again the same way.
ONLY REFERENCE THIS EDGE AND FACE FOR LAYOUT
As you lay out your cuts and joinery, ONLY reference your square and marking gauge off either this face or edge.
The labels are there to remind you.
As long as the fence of your marking tools is always referenced off of one of these two sides…
You’ll get an accurate layout and joinery that lines up beautifully.
This technique will maximize your accuracy even if you mill lumber with power tools.
So I implore you to try it out the next time you’re in the shop…
And spend less time focusing on things that aren’t as critical.
Want to get a handle of your hand planes? Check out my top 11 hand plane tips.
Love this technique — or think it's an abomination? Tell us why in the comments below!
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5 comments
mr Barry france
hi johnathan i recently bought your brilliant km 17 router plane .
however banggood now instead of supplying the great acccessory of the tool for sharpening the blades for the km-17,have changed it to a marking knife .
unfortunately you cannot mount this in my case the veritas mk11 sharpening jig which would give me accurate and repeatable results. i have e mailed banggood explaining the problem and asking them to supply me with the original blade holder but they have not replied.i would be very greatfull for your help .
regards Barry
hi johnathan i recently bought your brilliant km 17 router plane .
however banggood now instead of supplying the great acccessory of the tool for sharpening the blades for the km-17,have changed it to a marking knife .
unfortunately you cannot mount this in my case the veritas mk11 sharpening jig which would give me accurate and repeatable results. i have e mailed banggood explaining the problem and asking them to supply me with the original blade holder but they have not replied.i would be very greatfull for your help .
regards Barry
Walter Wall Scott
The last time I was implored, I ended up in hospital for 2 weeks.
The last time I was implored, I ended up in hospital for 2 weeks.
John Ford
Before I retired, I was teaching a lot of chemistry lab courses. The first meeting always involved teaching the idea that “A good chemist is a lazy chemist,” much the same idea as your introduction. Think about the process, and do things efficiently.
I knew about the cabinetmaker’s triangle and had heard various people mention marking the reference face – but I don’t believe anyone has ever mentioned that certain marks are traditional, what they were, and how to orient them. Thank you.
Before I retired, I was teaching a lot of chemistry lab courses. The first meeting always involved teaching the idea that “A good chemist is a lazy chemist,” much the same idea as your introduction. Think about the process, and do things efficiently.
I knew about the cabinetmaker’s triangle and had heard various people mention marking the reference face – but I don’t believe anyone has ever mentioned that certain marks are traditional, what they were, and how to orient them. Thank you.
Jeremiah
To indicate the flattened edges, I just draw a single line with my pencil from the jointed edge and the face. The line meets at the corner between the 2.
To indicate the flattened edges, I just draw a single line with my pencil from the jointed edge and the face. The line meets at the corner between the 2.
Ken Stover
Is your marking gauge cutting disc fixed or does it spin when marking?
Thank you,
Ken
Is your marking gauge cutting disc fixed or does it spin when marking?
Thank you,
Ken